Other parts needed to complete installation
1. Reverse light(s) not to exceed 150-Watts TOTAL power. Most lights are 55 Watts. Two of them will be 110 Watts
Tools Needed:
1. Drill and ¼” and 1/2” bits for switch
2. Knife
3. 10mm wrench or socket with ratchet
4. Dremel tool and plastic cutting bits (2 light Waytek rocker switch option)
5. File to smooth the plastic edge (2 light Waytek rocker switch option)
6. Screwdrivers
7. Sharp pencil (2 light Waytek rocker switch option)
8. Two pairs of needle nose so similar pliers
FIRST: Place vehicle on flat ground, set the parking brake and raise the hood.
Note: the wiring harness is shipped with all the wires connected as they will be when you are done. See pic below. Take note of how they are connected! Each wire has a label that matches the label on the mating wire so it’s easy to reconnect them! Just match # to # or letter to letter! You will need to take the harness apart to aid in running the wires. Be careful when pulling the connectors apart! Grab the connectors NOT THE WIRES!!! I suggest you use needle nose pliers! These connectors are tight for a reason: They won’t vibrate apart! Make sure to FIRMLY push them back together once you are ready to wrap everything back up!!!
Lit Switch |
Un-Lit Switch |
Non-lighted (Black Nylon) switch installation instructions
Black Nylon Switch
Owner Pics
Switch locations others have used.
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Provided by :JM Stevens |
Provided by :JM Stevens |
Switch on Dash
1. Choose location for switch and drill hole.
2. Attach the wires from the switch cable to the switch (if you disconnected them) matching the # on the switch to the # on the cable.
Switch Wiring
3. Mount switch in dash and tighten the holding nut firmly. Place switch in the center OFF position!
Lighted switch bank installation instructions
(for Center Console -Automatics ONLY)
1. Follow the above link, then continue with step 2 to finish.2. Route the gray switch cable end labeled 1,2,3,4 under the edge of the shifter console and up through the bezel.
3. Connect the Reverse Light switch to the cable matching the number on the wire to the number printed on the switch. See Fig. 5. Note your wire colors may differ.
Fig. 5
Continued Instructions (Both Auto and Manual)
1. Remove the following inside body panels: Driver side kick plate (just take it loose), door sill plates for front and rear drivers side doors, curved wheel well panel for drivers side passenger side door, cargo area sill plate and drivers side main cargo area side panel (the one with the power outlet). See Diagram above.
2. Raise the hood.
3. Get the fuse holder harness shown in Fig. 7…
Fig. 7
4. Leaving enough slack to route the fuse holder close to the battery (DO NOT connect to battery yet!!!), route the other end of the RED wire through the firewall (use the place where the AC Lines pass through the firewall. Insert the wire past the rubber boot). See Fig. 7A.
Fig. 7A
5. Route behind dash so that there is no interference with any pedal movement or emergency brake usage!!! Pick up the switch cable when you get to that area and route it along with the power wire. Route them behind the front kick plate, then under driver doorsill, under plate that hides seat belt (this is hard!) then under back door sill plate, up wheel well and finally to area where speaker is. (Follow the same path as existing wires). See pics in Fig 7.
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Fig. 7
4. Go back and starting from the front using the provided zip ties secure the +12V and switch cables in place. You do NOT want these wires moving around and chafing! Replace the body panels as you work your way back but leave the cargo area panel off. We have a bit more work to do there.
5. Route the +12V and switch cables to the large opening that the side pockets extend in to. See Fig. 7
6. Remove the screw holding the bracket that holds the plug for the reverse lights. See Fig.8A.
7. In the bundle of wires coming out of the bottom of the Brake Light Connector find the YELLOW wire with the red stripe. This is the brake light wire, which will activate the relay when the truck is placed in reverse. See Fig. 8B. Please note! There is another connector in the panel that also has a yellow wire with red strip. It is a larger connector and is for the door lock and alarm. Do NOT connect your T-Tap here!!!
Fig. 8A |
Fig. 8B Connect Here
NOT Here! |
Fig. 8C |
8. Crimp the T-Tap as demostrated in Fig. 8C to the YELLOW wire with red strip.
9. Plug the BLUE wire labeled To Tap from the switch cable into the T-Tap.
10. Plug the BLACK AUTO wire into #3 wire (BLACK) of the switch cable.
11. Plug the BLACK MAN wire into #2 wire (GREEN) of the switch cable.
12. Plug the WHITE wire from the relay into wire #1 (WHITE) of the switch cable.
13. Place the GREEN wire with the blue ring terminal under the reverse light plug bracket screw and tighten. See Fig. 8A.
14. See Fig. 8D for the completed wiring. Note: This pic shows the OLD style dual relay! Your loom may be any color!
Fig. 8D
15. Attach the fused end of the +12V wire to the positive terminal of the battery. In order to preserve your computer and radio settings do not let the battery cable lose contact with the bolt! Just remove the nut, put the ring terminal under it and firmly tighten. See Fig. 9.
16. Insert one of the 15 amp fuses into the fuse holder and replace the cap. Note: You can use 10 amp for 50-100 Watts, 15 amp for 100-150 watts or 20 amps for 150-200 watts.
Fig. 9
17. Flip the switch to the MAN position. You should hear the relay click. If you have a meter check for +12V on the RED wire labeled B . If you don’t hear a click or you hear a click but do not have +12V on the RED wire then go to the trouble shooting section.
18. Flip the switch to the AUTO position. Turn the ignition key on and place the trans in reverse. You should hear the relay click. If you have a meter check for +12V on the RED wire labeled B. If you don’t hear a click or you hear a click but do not have +12V on the red wire then go to the trouble shooting section.
19. Flip the switch back to center OFF. Turn off the ignition key.
20. Because of the different places folks mount the reverse lights I will not go into great detail about this part. However if you mount the lights to the roof rack or to a cargo carrier the best place to bring the wires to them is to thread the wires up throught the pillar post and through the rubber 'tube' where the wiper wires come through. Poke a small hole in the rubber as shown to get the wire(s) through.
Ground Connection |
Pic of mount by: Brent Scott |
Mount by:Abiel Guerra |
21. If you have two reverse lights then there are two 12 ga wires labled to Reverse Lights. Route one wire to each light. See the above pic for one possible way. Attach to the lights using the supplied crimp on connectors.
22. Properly GROUND the reverse light(s). To ensure maximum brightness from your lights make sure to use at least 12ga wire to ground the lights! Note: If you are using a separate ground for each light then 14 ga is fine. Keep the grounds as short as possible! NOTE: Your kit may include a yellow, green or red wire with a ring terminal on one end and a ground symbol on the other. Find a screw to put the ring terminal under, cut the wire to size, then tie both light grounds to this wire using a wire nut or solder and heat shrink. Make SURE to scrape away any paint under the screw! This is the NUBMBER ONE cause of lights not working!
23. Repeat steps 17 and 18. Your lights should come on in each case. If not go to the trouble shooting section.
24. Put the Relay Assembly into the large opening and using the supplied large zip ties, tie it out of the way. See Fig. 10.
Fig. 10
25. Replace the remaining panels and enjoy!
DISCLAIMER!!!
v This kit is for off road use only!
v It is against the law to drive on public roads with rear facing lights on!
v Always look behind you before turning on your lights so you don’t inadvertently blind someone.
v It is recommended that you leave the switch in the off position at all times. This is the law in Canada!!!
v Exceeding the stated wattage rating for the lights will result in blown fuses, hot melted wires, and a possible fire! You have been warned!!! If you REALLY need more than 150 watts I can build you a custom high power system! Just email me your needs!!!
I'd like to thank Abiel Guerra for the install pics he took and let me use...