CoolKit #8: Bumper Mount Driving/Fog Light Kit
Included Parts list:
1. Pre-assembled power lead with weather-pak ATC fuse holder
2. 1 15, 20, or 30 amp fuse.
3. Pre-assembled switch cable (Only in BM-DFLRK-2 and 3)
4. 1 pre-assembled relay harness and Bosch 40 amp relay
5. 1 unlit black nylon switch or 1 lit toggle switch or 2 light Waytek rocker kit (Only in BM-DFLRK-2 or 3)
6. 1 pre-assembled switch harness. (Only in BM-DFLRK-2 or 3)
7. 1 splice tap for tapping into headlight harness.
8. Many Zip ties to secure wires.
9. Wire loom to protect relay harness
10. Connectors to complete connections to lights.
Other parts needed but not included to complete installation
1. Driving/Fog light(s) not to exceed 20 amps TOTAL current pull! For reference, Hella 500 lights pull 4.5 amps each for a total of 9 amps.
2. Small tube of di-electric grease.
Tools Needed:
1. Drill and 1/8” and 1/2” bits for switch and access plate.
2. Wire strippers or sharp knife to strip wire
3. 10 mm wrench
4. 12 mm wrench
5. Dremel tool and plastic cutting bits or a broken off piece of hack saw (2 light Waytek rocker switch option)
6. File to smooth the plastic edge (2 light Waytek rocker switch option)
7. Screwdrivers
8. Sharp pencil (2 light Waytek rocker switch option)
9. Terminal crimpers.
10. Scissors to cut loom cleanly
11. Wire cutters to cut wire and to cut off excess zip tie flags
12. Flashlight to see under dash
FIRST: Place vehicle on flat ground, set the parking brake and raise the hood. Call you buds and tell them to come over. Turn on some good tunes and get lots of your favorite beverage! This is going to be fun!
Fig. 1
Note: the wiring harness is shipped with all the wires connected, as they will be when you are done. See Fig. 1. Take note of how they are connected! They are labeled so it’s easy to reconnect them! Just match # to # or letter-to-letter! You may need to take the harness apart to aid in running the wires. Be careful when pulling the connectors apart! Grab the connectors NOT THE WIRES!!! I suggest you use needle nose pliers! These connectors are tight for a reason: They won’t vibrate apart! Make sure to FIRMLY push them back together once you are ready to wrap everything back up!!! If you will be exposing these connections to moisture then I suggest you fill the connectors full of di-electric grease before assembling them.
Continued Instructions (Both Auto and Manual)
1. Using the 12 mm wrench remove the two nuts holding the access plate next to the brake booster. See Fig. 2. Using a small screwdriver or a knife blade loosen the plate. It has a foam gasket under it that will ‘glue’ itself to the firewall.
Fig. 2
2. Drill a ½” hole in the center of the plate and insert the supplied bushing into the hole finished side of bushing facing out. Make sure it snaps into place.
3. Using the 10mm wrench loosen the battery hold down bracket bolts enough to slide the battery towards the driver’s side as much as possible.
4. Lay the entire harness on the passenger side inner fender well. Uncoil the gray switch harness. The switch end of the wiring harness comes shipped with tape wrapped around it to protect it while you route the wires. DO NOT remove it until you have it routed all the way to the switch!
5. DO NOT secure any wires until told to do so! You want to ensure you can cleanly hide any excess wire! J
6. Starting behind the battery against the inner fender well route the switch harness wire behind the fuse boxes, under the hood hinge, behind the wiper motor, along the back of the firewall, on top of the AC lines to the access plate hole. See Fig. 3 and 4.
 |
 |
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
7. Feed the switch end of the switch wiring harness through the bushing in the plate (leave the plate hanging loose) and then through the hole in the firewall. Do not put the plate back on yet!!!
8. Crawl under the dash and find the wire. Route this wire to the switch hole you made earlier.
9. You MUST make SURE the wire cannot be caught in the brake or clutch pedal or the emergency brake mechanisms!!! There is room above all this to route the wire. Please take the time to do this right! Your life or someone else’s life may depend on it!!!
10. Remove the tape from the switch wire and attach the wires to the switch so that the number on the switch terminal matches the number on the wire. Refer to any included special documents.
11. If this is a lighted switch there will be a black or green ground wire attached to the switch. Ground this wire under one of the many nuts under the dash. Make sure you are grounding to metal! Tighten securely. There’s a ground lug, near the gas pedal, that is unused. See Fig. 5. You will need a 6mm x 1.0 metric nut and washer.
Fig. 5
12. Secure the switch in the dash or console.
13. Now go back to the main relay wiring harness and route the two red or yellow wires enclosed in wiring loom and labeled To Lite through the hole in the passenger side fender well shown in Fig. 6. Feed the entire loom through until the main relay is just behind the battery. Leave the wires in the loom!!!
 |
 |
Fig. 6 Fig. 7
14. Referring to Fig. 8 and 9, mount the relay harness to the passenger’s side inner fender well using the supplied nylon insert and screw. The insert snaps into one of the square holes shown in Fig. 8. Secure the relay with the provided screw.
 |
 |
Fig. 8 Fig. 9
15. Locate the short black or green wire with the blue ring terminal labeled GND. Undo the screw highlighted in Fig. 9, place the ring terminal under it, and tighten down.
16. Now route the loom containing the light wires from step 13 to the area behind the lights and grill. Temporarily zip tie the loom to the left side of the grill but don’t secure it anywhere else for now.
17. Referring to Fig. X remove the bolt as shown and place the TWO ring terminals labeled GND under the bolt so the wires and loom are going straight up. Tighten the bolt.
Fig. 10
18. Route the wires and loom straight up behind the grill. Pull it tight and secure it to the center grill support. See Fig.11. Remove both of the wires from the ground loom all the way back to where you tied it to the center support. Let the loom drop down for now. Don’t cut it!
Fig. 11
19. Now comes the fun part! We are going to make a loom that sort of looks like the letter E. The ground wires are the center of the E and the wires going to the lights are the top and bottom.
20. Remove the wires from the loom you attached to the passenger side of the grill all the way, until they are just behind the passenger side light. Let the loom just hang down. Don’t cut it!
21. Route one of the red or yellow light wires (It does not matter which one) across the front behind the grill and bring it through the grill just behind the driver side light. Leave the excess hanging out beside the light.
22. Route the other red or yellow wires through the grill just behind the passenger side light.
23. Take one of the ground wires (It does not matter which one) and route it through the grill just behind the driver’s side light. Use a zip tie to secure it to the red or yellow wire where it crosses it in the center of the grill.
24. Take the other ground wire and route it through the grill to the passenger side light. Use a zip tie to secure it to the red or yellow wire where it crosses it in the center of the grill. See Fig. 12 and 13.
Fig. 12 Fig. 13
25. Add zip ties as shown in Fig. 13 to complete the loom. Clip off all the excess zip ties.
26. Trim the loom from the ground wires so that it is right up against the ‘T’ where the wires cross.
27. Starting from the passenger side start putting the wires back into the loom you left hanging. When you get to the ‘T where the passenger side light wires are going through the grill just keep on going, let the wires come through the slit! Go all the way to the end of the driver’s side light.
28. Measure the two wires for each light and cut them off. Crimp on the supplied connectors as follows: Use the Male connector on the hot wire going into the light, use the female connector on the hot wire from the relay. Fill the connectors with di-electric grease so they won’t corrode.
29. On the grounds, use the Male connector on the wire going to ground and the female connector on the wire going into the light. Fill the connectors with di-electric grease so they won’t corrode.
30. Cut off any excess loom and save it.
31. Using the any of the loom pieces you cut off earlier, cut pieces to fit the wires going to the lights through the grill back to the main loom for the passengers side light. Cut a little extra so it is a tight fit!
32. Using black electrical tape, join the three “T’s” together. See Fig. 14. Ignore the fact that my loom is in front of the grill J.
Fig. 14
33. Secure the completed loom to the grill using zip ties.
34. Damn! That was hard, but you are not done just yet!
35. Get back under the dash and use zip ties to secure the switch wire in place so that your feet or anything mentioned in step 5 can not interfere with it. PLEASE do this step!
36. Pull any excess wire for the switch harness under the dash and secure it before continuing.
37. Re-secure the access plate with the two 12 mm nuts.
38. Working back toward the battery, use zip ties to secure the switch harness in place. Make it look neat! You are about ready to fire those mutha’s up!
39. Attach the fused end of the +12V wire to the positive terminal of the battery. In order to preserve your computer and radio settings do not let the battery cable lose contact with the bolt! Just remove the nut, put the ring terminal under it and firmly tighten. See Fig. 15.
Fig. 15
40. Insert one of the fuses into the fuse holder and replace the cap. Note: You can use 10 amp for 50-100 Watts, 15 amp for 100-150 watts or 20 amps for 150-200 watts.
41. OK here we go! Turn the switch on and get out your shades! You have LIGHTS!
42. Should they not work (No way!) Go to the Trouble shooting section below.
Trouble Shooting (will add more later)
43. Flip the switch to the on position. You should hear the relay click. No? Does the switch light come on? No? Check the fuse. Is it blown? Yes. Unplug the lights, put a new fuse in and try again. If it still blows, you have a short somewhere in the relay wiring.
DISCLAIMER!!!
This kit is for off road use only!
Check local laws regarding aux driving
lights before using!
Exceeding the stated current rating for the lights will result in blown fuses,
hot melted wires, and a possible fire! You have been warned!!! If you REALLY
need more than 150 watts, I can build you a custom high power system! Just
email me your needs!!!