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1971 Body/Chassis FSM

1971-74 F Engine FSM

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Beginning of the Journey

The Work Begins

Over all Brake Problems

The first thing I wanted to be able to do was move the Cruiser.  It had been sitting in the same spot in my drive for years and I really needed to pull it out a bit so I would have better access to the motor bay.  So I hooked it up to my Xterra, pulled it up the drive a few feet, and power washed the driveway of all the junk that had accumulated under it. Then I used the pressure washer to the Cruiser.  Oh man, a 2300 PSI pressure washer can punch all kinds of holes in rusty sheet metal! I was afraid there would be nothing left! Ok, he is pretty clean now so lets have another look.

Hmmm..., no brakes, pedal goes to floor.  Check the fluid level. It's low, so I add some to the very dark fluid that's there. Pump the brakes still no pedal. Crawl under truck to look for leaks and, "OH MY GOD! That's the biggest damn spider I have ever seen!!!" Exit to safety leaving skin behind in the process..

After dealing with the 20W-50 enhanced creature, I discovered the reason I had no brakes; I had broken the very rusty main hard line while installing the stainless steel flex line on the rear axle two years ago.  The line was rotted so I decided to just replace the whole thing. I could not get the line loose from the right angle union on the frame under the fire wall and ended up having to cut it out.  I was then able to use a torch and get the two ends out.  I have a flare kit that does double flares so the repair was no problem..

Ok so off to the parts store to buy 1 5' and 1 2' lines with metric ends.  I cut, then bent the long line and flared the end.  I remounted the right angle union then flared the coiled line, put a new end on it and attached it.  Next I emptied the master cylinder of all the old fluid then added new fluid.  I disconnected the front and rear hard lines and used my Mity Vac with brake bleed kit to pull fluid through the lines until it was clean. It took almost a quart! I then reconnected the hard lines and started bleeding the wheel cylinders. Did I mention how much I hate the dual wheel cylinders? I will fully test and adjust them when I get it running but for now they don't leak from manually actuating them.

Getting it started for the first time in 5 years

Ok pop the hood and stare at the tangle of old wires, hoses, spider webs and, well, you get the picture.. No? Well see Fig.1:

Engine Overhead

Fig. 1

Two different kinds of spark plug wires? Ok, so my brother was thrifty...At this point I was thinking it won't even turn over.  I installed a battery and verified I was getting power to the coil. Next I pulled all the spark plugs out, (4 Bosch platinum and 2 NGK? WTF?) put a couple of tablespoons of oil into each cylinder, drained the engine oil (molasses), left the plug out and poured another 2 qt's through to flush out the remaining debris. I put the plug back in and filled the crank case with 20W-50.  I opened the choke all the way and turned the key.. It cranked over easily! I cranked it for a few seconds and verified I had oil pressure.  I did. Then I checked for spark.. Hmmm no spark.  Pulled the distributor cap and rid the points of the greenish powdery stuff and did a quick check with a screwdriver.  Bam! Ouch! Yep, PLENTY of fire! I replaced the cap, cleaned, re gapped and reinstalled the plugs (yes I will get 6 correct plugs at a later time) and moved on to the next major problem.

Next Up: The Fuel system..

 

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