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1971 Body/Chassis FSM

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Rear Hatch Handle Repair

While working on the rear channel replacement I got tired of having to reach up inside the truck to open the rear hatch due to the handle being broken. So I posted on the LCML to see what folks had done to fix it. I got several responses ranging from: "Bend over and pay CCOT $54" to, "Well I rigged up a T-handle thingy" I liked the T-handle idea since that was what was on the inside. I figured I would take it apart, look at the problem and see if I could come up with how they did it. If nothing else I would remove the broken handle and bend over for CCOT!

I took the rear hatch access panel out from the inside and saw the piece of broken handle lying in the bottom of the door. After removing the broken handle I immediately saw why they break so easily: The handle is made from cast POT metal and has a built in point of failure! It breaks because a notch is cut into the right hand side for the tail gate lock to engage. This makes that area half the width of the other side therefore it snaps. See Fig. 1 for the broken piece.

Broken Handle

Fig. 1

Broken Handle

Making Lock Notch

Fig. 2

Making Lock Notch

New and Old

Fig. 3

New and Old

Since you can't weld pot metal, I had no T-handle to use, and I didn't really want to bend over, I decided to spend that rainy Saturday coming up with a new way to fix the handle.

I started by removing the lock and taking the handle mechanism apart. This is easy to do. Once I had the handle out I saw exactly how I was going to fix it. I would make a new replacement piece from 10 ga galvanized sheet metal using the broken piece as a guide. I started by making a thick paper template of the broken piece out of a file folder. I traced the broken piece out then made another piece that matched the base of the broken piece still in the handle. I taped these together, laid them on a piece of 10ga sheet metal and used a jig saw with a metal cutting blade to rough cut it out. Next I clamped the old piece to the new piece with some mini c-clamps and used a grinder and a file to give it its final shape. While still clamped together I drilled the pivot hole.

Now I made sure the piece would fit into the opening. I had to do a bit of grinding but not much. I re-installed the lock and once it was there I marked the place to make the cut in the piece for the lock mechanism to engage. I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to do that. See Fig. 2.

Now that I had a functional piece it was time to mount it to the handle. I first thought I could use JB Weld to attach it but after looking at it I decided to just drill a single hole through the remaining piece in the handle and use a small bolt. The only way I was able to drill the hole was to use a small air powered, right angle drill. You could probably also use a Dremel tool. See Fig. 4-5.

Hole in HAndle

Fig. 4

Drilling Hole

Handle Nut

Fig. 5

Attaching handle

Handle Attached

Fig. 6

Handle Attached

 

The Easy Way to Making Your Own Part

I got to thinking that someone else might want to do this and save the $54 that CCOT wants for this part so I took my handle apart one more time and using graph paper I traced around the finished piece. I then scanned the drawing in at 1:1 and printed the result to ensure it was the exact same scale, it was. Click the pic in Fig. 7. This will open a full size version of the scanned template. Right click on the pic and save it to your hard drive. When you print it out make SURE you print at 1:1! If you try to scale it it will be the wrong size. The scanned image is an 8.5" x 11" sheet.

Template for Part

Fig. 7

Template for part

When you print the template print it on as thick a material as your printer will handle. Card stock is fine or do what I did , cut a file folder up to an 8.5 x 11 piece and print on that. See Figs. 8-10.

Use scissors or a good sharp razor and cut the template out. You don't have to be super exact but the closer you get the less you have to grind later. Lay the template on the piece of steel you selected and trace around it with a pencil or sharp point permanent marker. Take some clear packing tape and cover the outline to prevent it from smearing. Use a jig saw with a metal blade and cut the template out. Now drill the holes and start test fitting. Use a file and grinder to make it fit. See above about drilling the hole in the handle.

Folder Cut Out

Fig. 8

Folder Cut Out

Printed Folder

Fig. 9

Printed on Folder

Cut Out

Fig. 10

Cut Out

 

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