1971 Body/Chassis FSM

1971-74 F Engine FSM

Page Index


3 Speed F Flywheel/Clutch Install

Fig. 0

Needs Resurfacing

Fig. 1

Flywheel Before Cleaning

Fig. 2

Flywheel After Cleaning

Fig. 3

Flywheel Bolted Up

Fig. 3A

Helper Stud

  1. The clutch installation starts by inspecting your existing parts. This OEM Toyota clutch has only about 10K on it and everything was in excellent shape. (Just for reference I had a flywheel that a club member gave me that needed to be resurfaced badly. Just so you know what that looks like look at Fig. 0.
  2. The flywheel had been out for about a year and had some surface rust here and there so I dropped it into the de-rust tank for 24 hours. A quick going over with a wire brush on a drill gave me a new flywheel! See Fig. 1-2.
  3. Find the 6 10mm x 1.25 x 30mm crank bolts and the locking plates. You will also need some red Loctite You don't want these coming loose! Clean the bolt threads and apply a couple drops of red loctite to them. Lift the flywheel into position (37 lbs be careful!) and use the dowel pin the align it in position. It will sit there by itself as long as you don't bump it. Place the lock plates under the bolts and hand tighten them. See Fig. 3.
  4. Now grab your torque wrench and something to jam into the ring gear teeth. I used a honking big screwdriver. Have someone hold the ring gear in place while you torque the flywheel bolts in a crisscross pattern. Start with 20 ft lbs, go to 40 then finally 58 ft lbs. Bend the corners of the lock plates up against the flat side of the bolts with a screwdriver and hammer to lock them in place.
  5. Rotate the flywheel to put one of the clutch plate retaining bolt holes at the bottom. Thread a 8mm x 1.25 x 50-60 mm stud or a bolt with the head cut off finger tight into this hole. This will hold the pressure plate while you start the bolts. See Fig. 3A.
  6. Using brake cleaner, or any other non-residue leaving cleaner, clean the surface of the flywheel where the clutch disk sets. Do the same for the pressure plate.
  7. Gather the 6 8mm x 1.25.x 18mm class 4 clutch cover plate bolts, your alignment tool, (I removed and used the front output shaft from my 3 speed tranny :-) ) the clutch disk and the clutch cover (pressure plate). You will also want some blue loctite.


Fig. 4


Fig. 5


  1. Lift the clutch disk in place and STOP!!!!!!!!
  2. You did check to make sure the clutch disk is turned correctly? Trust me... After reading about this and seeing pics and hearing all the stories, I STILL put the damn thing in backwards! Good thing I caught it before putting the tranny in! See Fig.4 for a backwards disk and Fig. 5 for a correctly oriented disk. Remember protruding HUB FACES ENGINE!!!!!!!! You might even consider putting a large piece of tape labeled REMOVE ME on the side that faces the pressure plate so you will know which side goes where.
  3. OK, back to installing. Place the clutch disk into the bell housing and let the bottom edge rest in the inner flywheel. The top edge will fall back toward you. Lift the pressure plate up into the bell housing until you can get it over the stud you put in earlier. (Sorry no pics of this.) Once it's secure on the stud insert your alignment tool through the clutch disk into the pilot bearing. This will center the disk and allow the tranny input shaft to easily go in later.
  4. Now, one by one, rotating the flywheel around for access, install the 6 clutch cover bolts. Put a drop of blue loctite on each one and only tighten them finger tight! Remove the stud of course!


Fig. 6

Securing Clutch Plate

Fig. 7

Measuring Setup


Fig. 8

Adjusting Fingers


  1. Refer to Fig. 6. Now according to the FSM, you should tighten the 6 bolts, one turn at a time crisscrossing round and round to slowly compress the pressure plate springs. I did more like three turns... It takes a little while... and wears your arms out turning the flywheel. Oh yeah, don't forget to remove the spark plugs so the engine turns easier!
  2. Once done carefully torque them to 11 ft lbs. They are small bolts, don't break them off!!!
  3. Now we need to check the fingers of the pressure plate to ensure they are the correct distance from the tranny mounting surface. The point is to get them all the SAME distance so the T/O bearing engages the fingers evenly allowing the disk to engage/disengage without chattering.
  4. Find a stiff, know good, straight edge and clamp it to the the bell housing as shown in Fig. 7. I used a file. Measure the thickness of the straight edge and write it down. My file was .170 thick.
  5. The FSM says each finger tip should be 2.930" from the tranny mounting surface. so add your measurement to the 2.930 for the total. Mine was 3.087. I set the dept gauge on a set of calipers to that amount and used it to measure each finger. Refer to Fig. 8. I had one that was way off! (Thanks to my PO who is also my brother...) I adjusted that one to match the other two and used red loctite on the threads to lock it down.

Fig. 9

3 speed Release Fork

Fig. 10

T/O Pivot Greased

Fig. 11

Release Fork Ball Greased

Fig. 12

Arm Bolt

  1. OK! We got the clutch in! Now lets get the release arm and T/O bearing in. Fig. 9 shows a 3 speed arm.
  2. As shown in Fig. 10-11 grease those points on the bearing and arm. I used red boat trailer grease. It's water proof.
  3. Insert the arm up through the lower bell housing and out the side your slave cylinder is on. Put a drop of blue loctite on the fork ball bolt ( 8mm x 1.25 x 25mm), and insert it through the bell housing, and into the fork ball pivot. Using a 17mm wrench to hold the fork ball, and a 12mm for the bolt, tighten it until it's snug. See Fig. 12.

Fig. 13

Greasing T/O Hub

Fig. 14

T/O Mounted

Fig. 15

CCOT Master/Slave


  1. Refer to Fig. 13 and fill the groove in the body of the T/O bearing mount with grease. Apply a thin film of grease to the T/O inner hub then the bearing surface that contacts the fingers. Finally a bit on the finger tips that contact the T/O bearing.
  2. Slide the T/O bearing onto the release fork as shown in Fig. 14. I forgot to take a pic of the release fork and T/O bearing part of the install but here is a pic of the old one before I removed it so you can see how the T/O bearing clips on to the end of the fork release arm.
  3. You can now try to put the rubber boot on the arm. Good luck, it's a pain in the ass to get it on but needs to be there to keep as much crap out of the clutch area as possible. See Fig. 12.
  4. Next I put the slave cylinder from CCOT on. This is actually a 74> slave cylinder they include with their master cylinder upgrade kit for the early Cruisers. See Fig. 15.

Fig. 16


Fig. 17


Fig. 18

Top View

  1. I had powder coated the mounting brackets and things, so it was a matter of just bolting it up. Have to wait till the body is on to bleed it!




1971 Body/Chassis FSM

1971-74 F Engine FSM

Page Index

Hosted by Global Software, Inc.

©1998 - 2023 Mark C. Baker Web Designer

Please: No part of this web site may be used without express permission... email mbaker@globalsoftware-inc.com for permission.