1. Get all your parts together, have a clean work bench, get plenty to drink and lets get started.
2. Get the idler gear and shaft, new thrust washers and the shim(s) you set aside from the teardown, retaining bolt and keeper, two needle bearings, spacer, and the new 'freeze plug'. You will also need a feeler gauge set. See Fig. 1.
3. When I disassemble the case I took a pic of the washers and shim placement. See Fig 2. I even labeled B for back of case and F for front on case. (Even though I labeled it I ended up putting the shim on the wrong side! However it will not affect anything. The following steps are the CORRECT placement!)
4. Wash the the idler shaft and idler gear in soap and water, and rinse well. Blow them dry then install a new O-ring on the idler shaft from the rebuild kit. Give it a coat of 90W and slide it into the rear of the case just far enough to hold the spacer shim and the thrust washer on it. The shim goes against the case! Make sure the thrust washer 'tab' is in the groove. Some thick grease will help hold it in place.
5. Dip the two idler gear needle bearings into some 90 weight. Slip one bearing into the idler gear from either side, then the idler gear spacer then the other bearing. Support it so the bearings don't slide out and put it within easy reach for the next step.
6. Stick your finger through the idler gear hole in the front and hang the thrust washer from it. Now using your other hand pick up the idler gear and place it into the case with the small gear toward the rear of the case. Slide the idler gear shaft through the gear cluster, through the thrust washer and into the front of the case. Temporarily install the keeper and retaining bolt.
7. Get your feeler gauge set and refer to the FSM to measure the thrust clearance. Mine measured .015" , in spec for the shim I removed.
8. Now lets start assembling the main output shaft.

9. Gather all the parts shown in Fig. 3. Wash the parts in hot soapy water, rinse and blow dry.
10. Place the output shaft as shown in Fig. 4. You can use 2 x 4's or what ever but make sure it is a SOLID support! coat the inside of the shaft and the outside of the bearing with 90W then carefully drive the bearing into the shaft until the end of the bearing is flush with the shaft end. I used a plastic faced hammer but a small board across it will work just as well.
11. Leave the shaft there and place the high speed gear (small gear) and thick washer over the shaft followed by the Koyo 30307JR-4 bearing. Note the bearing orientation and don't put it on upside down! I used the front drive clutch sleeve to drive it on since it's a perfect fit! See Fig. 5. Fig. 6 shows the correct order the parts should be in.

12. Place the large low speed output gear into the case as shown in Fig. 7.
13. Place the Hi/Lo Clutch Sleeve onto the output shaft and slide the whole assemble into the T-case as shown in Fig. 8. The shaft will pass through the large low speed gear and exit the other side. Slide it all the way in until the small High speed gear engages the idler gear.
14. Place the large washer and the other Koyo 30307JR-4 bearing onto the shaft as shown in Fig. 9.
15. Referring to Fig. 10, place some steel plate or some other type of spacer to support the large high speed gear so you can drive the bearing on without breaking the gear. The other side of the gear will rest on the inside of the T-Case. I used some old shackle side plates.
16. Now you need to make a SST. Cut a section of 2" diameter pipe about 7" long. Exhaust pipe works great. Use it to drive the bearing all the way on the shaft.
17. Place the bearing race over the shaft and drive it until it's flush with the case. When you install the speedo housing it will set this race to the proper depth. I was able to just install it by hand! See Fig. 11-12.

Next up: Reassembly: Page 2.

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