**Updated 8-3-2009 **
Man-a-not-fre must have given the first PO of my Cruiser (I'm the third) some super good deals. It has the 6 in to 1 headers,(since swapped to Downey 6 into 2 headers), seat covers, grab bar and the one I really don't get, the Delco distributor. This POS distributor has no vacuum advance, burns points quickly (look at Fig. 2, the points are discolored from heat!), and is wearing my cam gear out! Time to pull that sucker out and put back a Toyota distributor.
My first attempt at this was to pull the distributor from a spare 1974 motor I dug up and now have. I cleaned it up and took it apart to not only see how it worked but to rebuild anything that needed it. It would have needed a lot. Axial play was out of spec and the upper bushing had severe slop in it. During this process I was continuing to read and learn. What I learned was that this dizzy was a vacuum RETARD dizzy. This style dizzy did come stock on my 1971, but like the Delco, it only has mechanical advance. Plus it has bronze bushings instead of ball bearings and the bushings are not available. Oh well, at least I now know how the dizzy works.
How the Toyota 1974 Vacuum Retard Dizzy comes apart
I acquired a 'new ' distributor from a 1987 FJ60 2F motor for a good price. It came complete with an indented side cover.
My first task was to test it. Not having a FJ60 FSM I had to read up on the testing procedure on the web. Here is how I set it up on the bench to test it.
Note: Failure to properly make the following connections correctly will result in a blown Igniter!
If the spark is weak verify you have a fully charged battery connected and the ground connections are GOOD!
Remember to ALWAYS disconnect the +12V anytime you are not actually testing!!! The igniter pulls almost 4 amps just plugged in and not doing ANYTHING!
If it's still weak, you probably have a bad Igniter, but again check all the connections. Take each one loose and lightly sand the terminals or use a Dremel tool with a wire brush to clean them up. I cannot stress how important the ground connections are in this circuit! Re-assemble and re-test. If still weak, then substitute a known good Igniter and check again.
If you get no spark at all, it could be a bad Igniter, or a bad coil, or a bad pickup in the distributor. Substitute known good parts to see which part is bad, or test each component to see which one is actually bad. There are no user serviceable parts in the Igniter module but the pickup coil can be replaced.
Connect a wire from the + side of the coil to the + side of a +12V battery. Connect a spark plug wire into the coil tower connection and put a sparkplug in the end of it. Use a large clip lead clipped to the grounding electrode of the spark plug to the - side of the battery. Clip a wire to the - side of the coil and rapidly touch it to the - side of the +12 volt battery. You should see a nice fat spark.
No spark? Check all the connections and try again.
Still no spark? Use an ohm meter placed across the + and minus of the coil (the primary side of the coil) You should have a low reading of 4-8 ohms depending on the coil type. Place the meter from the - side of the coil to the tower connection. You should see several thousand ohms
Early Coil Test
According to some research on www.Ih8mud.com the mini truck Igniter/coil combo will substitute for the FJ40/60 module and is a bit smaller.
Jim Chenoweth of TLC Performance informed me that this dizzy will need a ported vacuum carb base which I do not have, and it should also be re curved to match my engine. I sent my carb and this dizzy to him so he can do it up right.
I got my carb (now with ported base!) and distributor back from Jim C. in October and after powder coating the side cover and installing it, I installed these refreshed parts on the engine.
When I was cleaning up the igniter module I noticed the cable going from it to the dizzy was frayed so I decided to replace it. Always did want to see what was in the housing!
Remove Module Screws
To Coil -
To Coil + (and +12V)
To Dizzy Pickup + Wire
To Dizzy Pickup - Wire
Ready to Splice
Heat Sink Grease
Yes, I'm moving slowly on this. I took a break from my wiring to install the dizzy into the truck.
Before you get started: HOOK UP A OIL GAUGE to the engine separate from the OEM unit!!! You MUST monitor oil pressure after pulling and installing the distributor! The distributor shaft cam gear spins the dizzy which in turn drives the oil pump. It IS possible to get the gear engaged enough to drive the dizzy but NOT drive the oil pump! You have been warned...
Final Rotor Position after Dizzy is dropped in place
Fig. 21 shows the Coil that goes with the 1987 Igniter. The Toyota part # is 90919-02113. (The Nippendenso # is 029700-4920)
Fig. 22 shows the Igniter for the 1987 dizzy. Toyota part # is 89620-60060. (The Nippendenso # is 191100-2323).
The Toyota number for the COMBINATION of the two parts above is 19070-61060 (The Nippendenso # is 101311-2323).
Fig. 23 is a labeled pic of the parts under the cap.
Fig. 24 is a pic of the single screw that clamps the FJ60 dizzy. Though the pic only shows a flat washer I will be adding a lock washer to it.
Fig. 25 is what the 'new' dizzy/igniter/coil looks like installed in my freshly painted F engine.
On the recommendation of Jim C. I will be moving the igniter to the passenger fender or possibly the firewall once I get the body done. Toyota moved it there for a reason: to help the coil/igniter last longer by removing it from a high vibration and high heat area.
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