1971 Body/Chassis FSM

1971-74 F Engine FSM

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Putting the Engine/Drive train back in the Frame


Fig. 1

Transferring Engine

Fig. 2

Ready to Do Rear Seal/Pilot Bearing

Fig. 3

Identifying Parts

Well I spent the weekend accomplishing a major task. I got the Engine in the frame! Lets just jump right to it... I elected to install the engine, then the tyranny, then the t-case for reasons I'll explain later.

  1. First I transferred the engine from the Harbor Freight stand to the Harbor Freight 2 ton hoist. I set the hoist on the 1/2 ton setting as you need as much reach as possible even with the front bumper removed. See Fig. 1-2. Learning from my rigging mistakes when I removed the engine, I made up a longer set of chains to keep the engine level.
  2. With the engine on the hoist I could now address the rear main seal (which I should have replaced when I had the oil pan off...) and the pilot bearing. See Fig. 3.


Fig. 4

Pilot Bearing Removal Tool

Fig. 5

Head Detail


Fig. 6

Pilot Bearing Removed


Fig. 7

Rear Seal Removed


Fig. 8

New Seal Installed

  1. In order to remove the pilot bearing one needs a pilot bearing puller which you can buy or even rent, or you can make one for about 30 minutes of your time and a trip through the junk box. You will need a 4-6 inch carriage bolt, a couple of nuts and a large socket or in my case a deep dimpled flat washer. See Fig. 4.
  2. Grind the end of the carriage bolt into the shape shown in Fig. 5. Test fit it often. It should just go through the inner bearing race then drop down in the groove you ground to hook over the edge.
  3. Slide it in place, then tighten the nut and it all goes well it will be pulled out easily. If yours is stuck, a harder, but guaranteed to work solution is to use a Dremel tool with a small cut-off wheel to cut the bearing out. Fig. 6 shows the bearing removed.
  4. Next I removed out the rear main seal. It was very easy of get out. I cleaned the entire area of all crud. See Fig. 7.
  5. The new seal is a CCOT seal and looked identical to the original Toyota seal. I coated the outside lip with a thin coat of high temp RTV and coated the inside lip with grease. Using a plastic faced hammer I started tapping it in until it seated flush with the engine. See Fig. 8.
  6. Finally I tapped the new pilot bearing in place using a socket.

Fig. 9

Bell Housing Installed

Fig. 10

Sliding it in...

Fig. 11

Almost Aligned

Fig. 12

First Bolt In...

Drivers Side

  1. Next I mounted my freshly cleaned and powder coated 4 speed bell housing to the block using the 4 12mm x 1.75 bolts. These were torqued to 54 ft lbs. See Fig. 9. I attached the motor mount brackets to the sides of the bell housing and tightened them as best I could. They will be torqued to spec once the engine is in the frame.
  2. I gathered all my rubber motor mount pucks (isolators) and bolts and laid them out on the frame then raised the motor high and started sliding the hoist under the frame. Watch the shock towers and oil pan! See Fig. 10.
  3. Everything cleared and I started lowering it down into position. Due to the chain arrangement the engine kept wanting to twist on me. It took a while as I was working by myself, but I finally was able to get it close. See Fig. 11.
  4. The first motor contact to the frame turned out to be the drivers side rear mount. I got that aligned and slipped the bolt up through the frame, into the bottom puck, up through the motor mount bracket and finally through the top puck. A flat washer then the castle nut was installed loosely. See Fig. 12.


Fig. 13

Passengers Side Rear

Fig. 14

Front motor Mounts

Fig. 15

Mounted brackets

Fig. 16

Aligning the front mount

  1. Next I wiggled the passenger side motor mount into position and slipped that bolt down through the motor mount bracket, puck, frame, lower puck then flat washer and finally a castle nut. Note the orientation of the pucks for this side! See Fig. 13.
  2. The front motor mounts are shown in Fig. 14. The stud goes through the frame mount. I had already placed these in position with the bottom bolt left loose so it could be moved around. The top bolt hole is for a 12mm x 1.25 x 25mm class 4 bolt.
  3. If have not already done so, install the front motor mount brackets on the engine. Use the correct bolts! They need to be Class 7 if OEM or class 10.9 if metric. See Fig. 15.
  4. I continued lowering the engine down until the front motor brackets were just about to touch. See Fig. 16.
  5. I put a bolt through the passenger side motor mount bracket and by moving the isolator around (remember I left it loose) got it started in the top hole of the isolator, moved to the drivers slide and wiggled the engine a bit and got that one started.

Fig. 17

Complete Front Motor Mount

Fig. 18


Fig. 19


Fig. 20



  1. Fig. 17 shows the completed drivers side motor mount. Don't forget to torque the lower nut on both of them!
  2. The completed motor sitting in the frame is shown in Fig. 18-20.

Next Up:Flywheel/Clutch Install




1971 Body/Chassis FSM

1971-74 F Engine FSM

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