1971 Body/Chassis FSM

1971-74 F Engine FSM

Page Index


Page 2 of 7

Rebuilding a 3 sp T-Case: Disassembly Page 2

Fig. 1

Pressing out Output Shaft?

Fig. 2

Pressure Building...

Fig. 3

Finally out!

Fig. 4

Removing High Speed Gear Bearing

Fig. 5

Stubborn Front output shaft Needle Bearing



Now comes what I found to be the most frustrating part of the whole disassembly: Removing the main shaft.

I placed the T-case across the anvils of my shop press, used a metal bar (SST) to support the other side of the high speed gear as recommended in the FSM, (See Fig. 1) and started pumping... Hmmmm nothing happening... Pump some more.... Pressure building.... then.....

There was a very loud POP! and my heart froze.... I thought : Oh GOD! Was that the case cracking?!!!!

Upon further inspection I found it was just the gear releasing it's hold on the shaft!... Cool! Now we are getting it done! It went about 3/8" then quit...

Did I mention that this is a 30 Ton shop press? It easily removed the shaft and bearing from the front extension housing. It then easily pressed the bearing off the shaft. I have used it to straighten stock Cruiser bumpers and those are not thin! However once it moved that shaft 3/8" it would NOT move it any further... Not knowing how much pressure the case would stand I stopped.

Hmmmmm...... I contemplated heating up the gear to make it release. I grabbed my Mapp torch but realized that all the gears were covered in thick 90W... I didn't think the wife would appreciate the smoke from burning 90W rising up through the house. (The shop is in the basement).

So plan B. Get on IH8MUD and see how everyone else does it. Ahhhhh..... the old beat it with a bigger hammer trick!

Well using the anvil of the press, a 3lb mini sledge and a large brass rod and four good whacks later the shaft slide right out! I will never understand that.... Anyway Fig. 3 shows the cluster out and ready for final disassembly.

Fig. 4 shows the removal of the High speed gear bearing. I just used the "Whack it with the hammer" method as it seems to be the fastest. Sometimes having the fancy tools does not mean the job goes faster...

Fig. 5 shows the butchery that occurred when I tried to pull the needle bearing from the end of the front output shaft. I do not have a pilot bearing puller so I first tried grinding an allen wrench so it had a thin lip to insert into the shaft, but after an hour of trying, it broke.

So ... break out the Dremel tool with a small grinder wheel and carefully cut through the bearing cage, pull that out, then cut the shell in two places all the way through and hammer a small screwdriver behind the pieces, then use needle nose pliers to pull out the pieces. Pain in the ass...

Ok back to disassembly...

Fig. 3

Remove Idler Gear Retainer

Fig. 4

Home built SST

Fig. 5

"Freeze Plug"


Fig. 6

Idler Gear Parts


  1. Remove the 12mm retaining bolt and keeper for the idler gear shaft. See Fig. 2.
  2. Use a 8mm x 1.25 tap to clean out the threads in the end of the shaft.
  3. Gather the following: A 8mm x 1.25 x 60mm or longer bolt (cut the head off the bolt and bevel the edge) or stud, a socket large enough to fit over the end of the shaft (I used a 15/16"), a washer to cover the end of the socket and a 8mm x 1.25 nut.
  4. Place the socket over the end of the shaft, thread the stud fully into the end of the shaft, place the washer over the stud then thread the nut on the stud. Use a wrench and start tightening the nut. As you tighten it, the stud will start pulling the shaft out of the t-case. See Fig. 4. At this point stand the case up so that the thrust washers and needle bearings will not fall out of the case. You want to pay attention to where the thrust washers and any spacers are so you can put them back on the correct side!
  5. Note: You can also just drive the shaft out backwards a bit to knock out the "Freeze Plug" then drive the shaft out the front. See Fig. 5.
  6. As mentioned note where the thrust washers and any shims are, then lift out the idler gear cluster. See Fig. 6.
  7. Now using a brass punch and hammer remove the main shaft bearing race, the output shaft bearing, the freeze plug and the transmission output seal.

Fig. 8

Seal Orientation!

Fig. 9

Top Cover Stripping


  1. Using a seal puller, remove the transmission seal. Caution!!! When re-installing this seal note that it may appear to you to be installed 'backwards'. It is NOT! The spring faces toward the transmission! See Fig. 8.
  2. Locate the top shift cover, and pull the actuator shaft out through the bottom. Use a punch and drive the seal out from the bottom, it will be replaced. Unscrew the vent from the top with an adjustable wrench. Soak it in some solvent to free it up and set it aside.

Now that the case has been stripped of all parts you can clean it and all the covers/housings. I placed the parts in my parts washer to get most of the crud off , then put them in my powder coating oven at 600 degreasese for 60 minutes to burn off the remaining oil and grease.

Up Next: Sandblasting Case/Powder Coating Parts




1971 Body/Chassis FSM

1971-74 F Engine FSM

Page Index

Hosted by Global Software, Inc.

©1998 - 2023 Mark C. Baker Web Designer

Please: No part of this web site may be used without express permission... email mbaker@globalsoftware-inc.com for permission.