Rebuilding the 3 sp T-Case: Cleaning/Powder
Coating the Case
Fig. 1
Rear Of Case
Fig. 2
Front of Case
Fig. 3
Inside Case
Prepping the case for Blasting
After baking the case and parts for an hour I let them cool
completely then removed them and prepped them for sand blasting. This involved
using masking tape
on
all the areas where we don't want the sand to etch. All race surfaces or
anywhere where the surface should not be removed were covered. See Fig.
1-3. Note in Fig. 3 where I inserted
the idler shaft to protect the bores, then put the old "freeze plug' back
in
to keep the sand out. I used silicone plugs to plug the shift shaft bores
and drain plug threads.
Fig. 4
Rear after Blasting
Fig. 5
Front after Blasting
Fig. 6
Inside after Blasting
Fig. 7
All the parts Blasted
I reduced my normal blast cabinet pressure
from 130 PSI to about 90 PSI to reduce the removal of any material from
the case and used an old nozzle which allows more sand to flow and also
reduces the pressure.
Fig. 4-7 show the
parts after blasting. BIG difference! Note that I did not blast the inside
of the case. I was afraid that sand particles might become imbedded in
the
case
than
fall out later causing bearing damage.
Fig. 8
Case Powder Coated Chrome
Fig. 8 shows the case
cooling in the oven after coating with extreme chrome powder coat. Real
purdy, don't ya think? I also did the
front nose cone, top and PTO cover and the shifter housing. Then I added
a special top coat to the covers and some bolts. You will see that later
as the reassembly starts!
After the case cooled from powder coating,
I removed all the high temp tape and plugs and took the case out side where
it was scrubbed throughly inside and out with soap and water to remove any
sand particles. After a high pressure rinsing it
was blown dry with dry 130 PSI air.
