1971 Body/Chassis FSM

1971-74 F Engine FSM

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Chauncey Hood's FJ40 De-Rust Tank


Chauncey Hood, after reading my de-rust web page, decided to take the basic de-rust tank idea to the next level. Chauncey is also building and reviving an FJ40.

Chauncey and a framing friend built a 8.5' x 6' x 1.75' (102" x 72" x 20") 'tank' from 2 x 4's and chip board, lined it with 6 mil black plastic, built an anode grid by welding re-bar together then filled it with about 670 gallons of a water and Sodium Carbonate solution. What you are about to see is the first known de-rust tank large enough to hold an ENTIRE Cruiser body shell! There is no reason I can think of that a version deep enough to submerge the entire body couldn't be built with just a few engineering tweaks, but then most of the rust on a body good enough to justify this amount of work will be on the bottom 20 inches of the shell anyway.

More details from the builder:

This tank was built on a flat garage floor, but you could set something like this up outside on smooth level dirt, asphalt, or gravel. You may need a more durable liner if you choose to do that though! Home Depot sells thick pool liner material in the garden section. No matter how you slice it the 6 mil plastic will have pin holes, so be prepared. The slightest bump will bruise it. My only saving grace was the shop floor sealed the pin holes after the floor got a little wet. 670 gals of water is pretty heavy (5581 lbs) so it tends to seal very tightly against the floor! (Gallons calculated by the formula L X W X D X 7.5. This gives 8.5 x 6 x 1.75 x 7.5 = 670 gallons. Weigh of one gallon of water is 8.33 lbs. 670 x 8.33 = 5581 lbs)

Construction of the tank is as follows: 2x4 rails top and bottom notched to join Lincoln log style. I left at least 6" on the ends so the notches wouldn't split out. 3/8" chip board (roofing material) for the sides and be sure the nails (or screws if you prefer) go from the inside out (punctures you know). My reasoning is that the short sides would need only one brace and the long sides at least two. I used some hurricane cord (any stout strapping will do) to run on the bottom from side to side and end to end where I placed the braces. The cord keeps the sides from bowing to water weight and the braces keep the sides from bowing out. Placing the plastic in was a trial. A 12' x 13' piece of plastic just fit. The best thing to do is make sure your tub frame is relatively square and staple one side (on the top of course) and work from there. A few pieces of duct tape will help hold the shape until you are satisfied. Then staple around the top. Be careful with the plastic cause like I said before... it bruises real easy. My final size was 6'x8 1/2'x20". I suppose you could go perhaps to 24" high without a design change.

Fig. 1
Basic Construction

Fig, 2

Yep it'll fit!

Fig. 3
Bracing the sides

Fig. 4

Plastic Installed

Fig. 5
Shell in tank

Fig. 6
Another View

Fig. 7

After a week


Fig. 8


The re-bar grid was connected to a small battery charger and the plan is to leave it there for a week then lift the body out and check the progress. I'll post new pics as I receive them. Enjoy!





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